Curly Tails

Monday, May 11th, 2009

Curly Tails (bar & restaurant with free WIFI)

Marsh Harbor

Abacos

Bahamas
     
                                            Curly Tails, Marsh Harbor, Abacos, Bahamas

We are traveling through the Abacos during full moon time; meaning higher high tides and lower low tides... and we bumped the bottom once in the sand between Little Harbor and Marsh Harbor, in the shallow passage between Witch Point and Pepper Cay.  We anchored just out of the narrow channel on the north side of the Marsh Harbor harbor and the anchor set immediately.  I love it when that happens!  You feel so secure!  Still, although we’re in 8 to 11 feet of water, I put out 75 feet of chain.  We have a big boat and it has some windage to it.  I don’t want to drag anchor AND I like to sleep well, so having a little extra anchor rode out makes me feel more secure.  Of course, if the wind does pick up, the wind generator would scream loudly and wake me up.  Then, no matter how tired I am, I would go up to the cockpit and look around to make sure we were OK AND that no other boat was dragging anchor into us!  OR worse, dragging their anchor across OUR anchor or/or anchor chain and uprooting it... and thereby, tangling two or more boats together with anchoring tackle... scary stuff in the middle of the night... OK, enough of “what if’s”... back to my story... we’ve just anchored in Marsh Harbor.
           
 

The next issue on our itinerary is to study the weather, the weather forecasts, the sea state, and any other sources of information we have gathered to plan our passage back to America.  There is a gale off Cape Hatteras kicking up the winds and seas down into off the Georgia coast, so we can’t get further north than Fernandina Beach, FL, for about a week.  We can’t/won’t do the ICW through Georgia because Georgia has not appropriated the money to keep the ICW dredged and with the shoaling and vast tidal range insures, we would bump and/or get stuck with our six foot plus draft... so we always (except for once when I really wanted to see what Georgia was like) sail offshore around Georgia.  But right now, that’s not possible... so do we cross to Florida and wait a few days for weather or do we stay here in paradise and enjoy ourselves until the necessary weather comes along.  Not a hard decision, eh?
                               

Our anchored position in the harbor places us near the channel.  I plotted our position on the chart and we are sitting right next to the marked channel line on the chart.  One other boat was definitely sitting a little “in” the channel, so we went over to chat with them, Rainbow Ride, and inquire if they we thought we were both far enough away from the channel.  

“I’m not worried about it.  The channel is wide and there is plenty of room for boats to get by.  Show me a boat coming in here that is too large to get past my stern and the buoy!  Also, the other available areas in this harbor are too shallow for most sailboats to anchor in, so I’m staying here.”  

Good points.  The only boats coming in this area are power boats or sail boats and there IS plenty of room... so we stayed where we were and so did they.  This channel was unlike the one in George Town that freighters use.  This one is just typical marina traffic.  In the meantime, we met Dick and Millie on Rainbow Ride and had some delightful conversations and meals with them. FUN folks!  Better yet, Dick keeps his boat in Solomons, MD, and  Millie is from Canada.

Richard on Rainbow Ride (in the ICW)

After chatting with Rainbow Ride, we saw a boat from George Town; Loon, and dinghied over to chat with them.  At this location, the majority of the boats moving into this area are also heading back to the USA and looking for weather, which prompts introductions and inquiries about their plans, sharing our thoughts and combining all available weather routing information.  In this way, we met Everett and Kenny on Loon, two brothers also enjoying the cruising season in the Bahamas. 

                                                            Everett and Kenny on Loon

I had met Everett at Texas Hold-Em in George Town.  I remember thinking he was a delightful conversationalist with an entertaining sense of humor.  I had not met his brother, Kenny, the handsome owner and skipper of Loon at the card games, but there are five or six tables of ten people at each table and the two of us later surmised we must have been on opposite sides of the room. 

ANYway, they, too, were planning to make the passage to the USA, along with several other boaters we met... Greg and Marty. Australian father and son, on Liberty, and Mike and Marline on Drum Beat.  Liberty was heading to Charleston.  Drum Beat around Cape Hatteras.  Loon, Rainbow Ride and Moonlight Serenade to Beaufort, NC.  We all chatted frequently about the latest weather/wave information and debated routes.  Being a Chris Parker weather-router fan, I leaned toward his recommended route; west along the norther bank of the Abacos, into the Abaco current, and over to the Gulf Stream, where a right turn toward north would take us toward Beaufort with an additional 2-3 knot speed, thanks to the Gulf Stream current.  In my mind, we would also be “closer to land” for my first long passage and I liked the idea of extra speed due to current.  However this route was 100-120 miles longer than the straight line from Marsh Harbor to Beaufort. 

In the end, it became “The Great Race.”  Liberty and Moonlight Serenade would take the described route and the other boats do the straight route.  I was full of curiosity to see how it would all play out.  Also, the straight route would be closer to the storm system we were waiting out... 

In the meantime, we had to wait, so we listened to the VHF radio net at 8:15 AM in the Abacos and enjoyed the advertised offerings; Friday, May 8th, going to Snappys for Happy Hour, FREE appetizers, and live music.  The band turned out to be very good, keeping us awake WAY past our usual 9PM bedtime. 
 
        Greg, Marty and Richard (in the back)                                     Greg, Kenny and Bill 

                                                                            The Band

Saturday, after listening to Chris Parker at 6:30AM and watching sailfish sailboat races in the harbor, we pulled up anchor, refueled, and then re-anchored and watched more of the races.
   
                                                          Marsh Harbor harbor races

We dined at the Jib Room, where we met cruiser Jerry on BiBi.

Sunday was Mother’s Day. I splurged, turned on my cell phone and called my mother.  It is always so refreshing to hear her voice and chat with her.  While AT&T offers a $1 plan per minute to call from the Bahamas, the Bahama Telephone Company charges an additional $5 per minute, which is NOT advertised when one signs up for the “international roaming” plan.  I found this out the hard way last season when I received a $1500 cell phone bill AND I hadn’t talked THAT much!  So now, I turn the phone OFF and don’t turn it back on until back in the USA... except for my Mother’s Day treat of chatting with my mother.  

For MY Mother’s Day, we pulled anchor and set out for Great Guana Cay and the Nipper’s BBQ party, which, as always,  was terrific.  First, we dinghied to shore; the bar there is called Grabbers and they have a good rum punch, a nice gift shop, TV, pool, bocce ball area, etc, etc.  They also offered FREE 5 minute phone calls to the USA, so I called my son and Bill phoned his mother and sons and sisters, since no one else was using the phone. 

Next, we strolled through “town”... 

                                                            Downtown on Great Guana Cay

...to the ocean side of the island to Nipper’s, met lots of people, danced, chatted, had a terrific buffet lunch/dinner.  

                                                                                                                 Caribbean tractor        
            
                                                                                 Nipper's Pools and Bar

  
                       Greg, Bill and Millie                                                Fun new friends at Nipper's

   
          Everett "getting down"                               The beach in front of Nippers

On the path to Nippers is a large example of the Poison Wood tree.  It is about ten times as irritating to the skin as poison ivy, can leave scars, and the body has a long recovery period.  The only trouble is that it looks like many of the other trees and shrubs do, except for it's mottled bark.  Bow Wow!

                 
               Poison Wood Tree                                                Poison Wood leaves and flowers

Later in the day, returned to Grabbers where we all (Greg, Marty, Everett, Kenny, Bill, Dick, Millie and I) played bocce ball until after dark.  The space shuttle was scheduled to launch at 2AM... 2 AM!... but I dutifully set my alarm, got up at 1:45AM, and stayed up until 2:30 AM with camera in hand, before going back to sleep.  I didn’t see the shuttle and figured it was postponed; which I guess it was.  

                                                                 Sunset at Grabbers

Monday morning, we pulled anchor and sailed over to Man Of War Cay, where I visited the sail loft and purchased a few sailcloth duffle bags. 
          
                                        Albury's Sail Loft, Man of War Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


Then, we sailed back to Marsh Harbor, anchoring a little further in from the channel, going to Curly Tails to finish uploading photos for the blog (uploading takes FOREVER!!!),

The view from Curly Tails

enjoying a fresh conch salad, picking up some groceries and heading back to the boat to fix dinner for nine:  Jerry, Kenny, Everett, Greg, Marty, Richard, Millie, Bill and me.  Everyone brought something; appetizers or desserts, etc., and we enjoyed one another’s company until 1:30 AM.

                  Millie, Richard, Bill, Everett,                                    Marty, Greg, Kenny and Jerry

Tuesday, our weather forecaster/weather router/passage making advisor, Chris Parker, informed us the storm had moved off a little more quickly than previously thought, but a tropical disturbance was looming and approaching the Bahamas from the south and the weather in the Bahamas would "deteriorate."  Now the word “tropical” will get a sailor’s attention faster than the word “rum.”  TROPICAL????  We’re OUT of here!  I picked up the SSB mic, called out “Moonlight Serenade,” was heard by Chris in Florida, and inquired about a “weather window” to sail from Marsh Harbor to Beaufort, NC. 

“You could possibly leave tomorrow(!)... the stalled frontal trof (high winds, waves and 30-40 knot squalls) just north of you should have moved east by the time you get to that area.  The seas might be lumpy and confused, but it’s do-able. The frontal boundary stretching from Bermuda back to Central Florida will move... the compression zone bringing the high winds off the Georgia coast will dissipate... the high pressure ridge will weaken, bringing more settled conditions and lighter winds... BUT, a cold front will move off the east coast Sunday, bringing very strong northerly winds, so you want to be “in” before Sunday at noon..."

Then, he gave me the probable conditions we will face:

“Wednesday:  SE winds from 135 degrees at 10 knots, will pick up to 12 to 13 knots in the afternoon and 14 knots overnight, with a 4 to 5 foot North-East swell developing and a 7 second interval.

Thursday:  East of Central Florida, you should see winds from 110 degrees at 12 knots, increasing to 18 knots in the evening, with the NE swell with 7 second interval continuing.

Friday:  Off Georgia, winds 120 degrees at 14 knots.  Off South Carolina, winds 140 degrees at 13 knots, with the NE swell becoming more of a 4 foot East swell.

Saturday: Off South Carolina, 140 degree winds around 13 knots.  Coming into Beaufort, 200 degree winds around 15 knots and building to 20 knots with gusts in a 4 foot ESE swell. 

You want to be in somewhere no later than Sunday at noon, as the winds following this cold front will be very strong; 25 to 35 knots and from the NORTH.  You do NOT want to be “out there” when this arrives.”

Chris then gave us the latitude and longitude coordinates for the favorable clockwise current north of the Abacos and the center of the Gulf Stream at every ten degrees of  latitude.

So.  We leave in the morning.  Drum Beat announced they would depart this afternoon, as they wanted to get around Cape Hatteras and needed to do it before this cold front drastically changed the conditions.  I always think about the weather and how fickle it is and how quickly it can change its mind and do something differently than previously predicted.  When sailing, you know the 24 hour forecast is about 95% accurate.  The 48 hour forecast is about 60% accurate.  And from that time on, the accuracy drastically diminishes.  Now add this with an ocean passage, lack of sleep and bumpy conditions and you can quickly talk yourself out of ever moving... but this information did sound like we could weave ourselves around the existing weather issues between the Abacos and Beaufort, so we all decided to go for it. 

Also, now in my third year of subscribing to Chris Parker for weather routing advice, we have found his analysis “right on” and have had wonderful passages, due to his expertise.  We knew what we would be facing, but not going would have kept us facing that “tropical” word and unpleasant conditions in the Bahamas for an unknown period of time... with no “weather window” in sight... so “it’s a go!”

Bill and I both carried our lap tops back to town, found WIFI, and independently went through our own weather information sites, which confirmed what Chris had told us AND gave us a visual on the conditions we would be sailing in.  Bill and I have both taken Lee Chesneau’s Weather Course, know how to read weather charts and 500 mb charts, and have an understanding of what all of those squiggly lines mean.  We also downloaded some of the daily forecast charts and maps to refresh our memories while underway and I would be listening and chatting with Chris Parker every morning at 6:30 AM on Single Side Band radio, channel 4045, and checking in with the other boats making the passage at 7:30 AM on 4009.  

Bill checked the boat systems, fluids, etc, while I stowed everything and/or tied it in place.  I also cooked extra food, so if too rough to cook or heat food, we could still eat it cold.  

Wednesday, May 13th.  (Glad it’s not a Friday)

I listened to Chris Parker.  The window had not changed.  We pulled up anchor and motor sailed across Abaco Sound and out into the Atlantic Ocean. 

Heading across Abaco Sound towards Man of War cut and the Atlantic Ocean

The swells were 3 to 5 feet in SE 10-13 knot winds.  Light winds for sailing, so we motored for a while and charged our refrigeration and our batteries, while chatting on VHF with the other boats.  

Heading north from Abacos.  Red dots are center of favorable current.

Now every sailboat is different.  They sail at different hull speeds at a given wind speed and at different angles to the wind, so by late afternoon, we only had a visual on Liberty. 

Liberty sailing north west towards the Gulf Stream

To “stay with other boats” would slow some boats down and when passage making, you want to complete the passage and get safely in to port... 

At noon, we had 12-14 knots of wind and a 6.9 to 7.8 knot speed over ground (SOG).  The waves come in two types; ocean swell and wind chop.  Presently, we had 3 to 5 foot NE swell (waves) every 7 seconds.  This wave pattern approached from the beam (side), gently rolled us from side to side as it passed under us and continued on its way, unchanged.  At the same time, the 2 foot wind chop approached from behind, raced us along, then scooted out from under our bow, again, totally intact and unperturbed by our passage.  How do waves DO that???  The two different wave sets also both go about their business without interfering with each other; quietly rolling around together in the big sea, as happy as can be.  Together; yet totally independent and distinguishable from each other.  Human relationships should be this compatible.

The depth meter stops metering between 300-600 feet and either holds it’s last reading or does this: ---   So while I was on watch, it suddenly came to 23.9 feet, 22.8 feet, 22.5 feet... and held.  Of course, a little adrenalin burst shot through as I rapidly checked the chart, already KNOWING there were no shoals out here... but just instinct made me check... and then I pondered what type of fish or whale it was that we just passed over.  SCARY!  BIG!  (LOL!)

Bill and I have tried different types of shifts.  On short overnight passages we have both stayed in the cockpit keeping one another company, with one of us dozing while the other watched and passed watch back and forth as the dozing one awoke.  We have frequently done three hours on and three hours off at night, but both carried on during the daylight hours with maybe a nap.  But this trip would be longer, so we went with the most recommended watch for two people; four hours on and four hours off around the clock.  I was on watch from 2AM to 6AM, 10AM to 2PM, and 6PM to 10PM.  I love the sunrises and sunsets. 
  
               Sunset Day #1                                                                    Dawn Day #2
                     

                                                                        Sunrise Day #2

It also allowed me to fix lunches and dinners during my shift, as when on watch, one only needs to scan the horizon for lights and ships and check the chartplotter for AIS symbols/ships (Automatic Identification System broadcast by law by any vessel 100 feet or larger), at least every 20 minutes.  I do it every 15 minutes... religiously.  We both found the four on and off system worked beautifully.  The rough waves later in the trip prevented some deep sleep, but we both were lying down for about 12 hours every 24 hours and remained rested enough to maintain our cognitive thinking and remain alert.  I feel I am now ready to cross the Atlantic; knowing I can carry on in this type of sleep pattern.  Add a third person to the mix and VIOLA!  You have EIGHT hours OFF and four hours on!  Cool....

We saw all types and combinations of winds and wave combinations on this passage.  The majority of it was just as Chris predicted.  The two really nasty mornings (Thursday and Friday), we were off of the given waypoints due to sailing with the wind on our stern and having to “crack off” a bit to keep the sails filled.  However, when comparing notes with the other boats, they, too ran across these nasty, large mixed seas.  The waves were square.  At the bottom, you were looking high UP at the wave tops.  Next minute, the boat was popping up, out and over the top and sometimes slamming back down into the trough on the other side.
   
                                                           Dramatic sunset Day #2

                                                               Clouds following sunset

On Thursday morning,  I did ask Chris about predicted waves in this area and he advised where to find calmer seas, and we did.  Honestly, the waves were confused and 8 to 12 feet, as the two wave sets would combine at times and become much larger.  Moonlight Serenade handled it all quite beautifully, as did we.  It’s not like you can decide you’ve had enough and it’s time to get off!  So, you just keep the mind set that this is how it is for the moment and know it might change later, which would be nice... and just go with the flow, or toss, or bounce.. or slam... and it did pass, thank God!  (Oh, yes... I did ask Him to smooth out His seas a few times...) <grin>
               
                         Sunrise day #3                                                        Sunset Day #3

Issues:  Yes, there are always issues on a boat.  If you don’t like problem solving, don’t go cruising.  If you go cruising, you will become a good problem solver OR you will sell the boat or enjoy staying tied to the dock. 

At 3AM one morning while I was sleeping, the Man-Overboard alarm jolted me out of a deep sleep.  Bill and I both wear RayMarine wrist band alarms that go off when submerged/wet or further than 50 feet from the alarm device.  BLEEEEEPPPPPP...BBBLEEEEP...BBBLEEEP.... “Oh, (bad word!),” I thought.  Bill’s fallen OVERBOARD!  I dashed up the companionway, bruising my shins in the rapid clamber up the steps.  “BILL!”  I called out.  “What?” he replied.  “WHERE ARE YOU?”  I asked, not seeing him.  He sat up at the helm from attempting to shut off the alarm.  "JEEPERS! That scared me!” 

The seas were rough and for the next hour I dug through our files of instruction booklets, found the alarm information, and read REALLY TINY PRINT while bumping around in the seas, until I found how to turn the still bleeping alarm off.  Then, back to sleep, which was impossible due to the adrenalin rush, so I listened to a book on tape that Galena-Bill had given me and this chapter was about seasick crew.  GROSS!  Not NOW!  So I pulled up Jimmy Buffet’s song about “Mother Ocean” and using blankets, towels, etc, tried to pack myself in so I wasn’t rolling from side to side across the bed.  I WILL make Lee cloths before heading offshore again!  They hold you in place and prevent you from rolling around while trying to sleep.  Eventually, I did drift off to sleep again and was ready to take my next watch, as if I had a choice in the matter!

Another time... oh, have I told you that EVERY issue tends to happen between 2 and 3 in the morning?  BANG!  The hydralic vang disconnected from the boom in the ..."bumpy".... seas and we could no longer use our mainsail in the correct position for sailing downwind... Bill tried to reconnect the vang in the morning light, but the seas were too rough, etc., so we let it be.

Then, the roller furler on the jib sail hung up as a big roller slacked the sail too much and bound the roller furler line as we were diminishing sail.  Three attempts later, we had both carefully maneuvered the sail and the furler line and fixed it without anyone needing to go up on the bow.  The problem with it fouled is that if strong winds come, you can’t bring in the sail.  Too much sail out would not be good.  

Another observation:  Thirst. 
I have read that the human body reacts to heavy seas by changing the blood chemistry.  Bill and I both found ourselves going to the head (bathroom) about two or three times what is normal, and craving water, bottle after bottle.  I found Gatorade minimized the liquid craving, quenched the thirst, and diminished the visits to the bathroom, but it is a physiological reaction I shall research. Kenny on Loon thinks it has something to do with adrenalin.

Sailing towards a beautiful cloud bank during my “sunset” watch, I wondered what it would hold for Moonlight Serenade and me.  However, it didn’t disturb me and I wondered when those little fear “barbs” had finally dissipated within my mind.  Familiarity with the boat, more experience at the helm and operating the boat alone has led to a deepening confidence in the whole affair and a peaceful acceptance that things will happen and I will be capable of handling whatever it is that comes next.

                                                               Approaching cloud bank

I read somewhere that when you go sailing, you don’t escape your problems or issues, but that they are magnified in your “smaller” world.  This is true.  But hours upon hours of standing watch alone grant you the time to think, reflect, and often solve and resolve your issues; making you internally stronger and more peaceful.  What a gift to have the time to just sit and think; how rare the opportunity.  

I sit at the helm, heeled over, sailing along at 8 knots; the sun an hour from setting,  and I am sad this is my last evening at sea.  While I still get that little bubble of excitement when a strong gust hits and pushes the boat further over before it accelerates, I no longer worry the forces will break things; and if it does, well, cruising is all about problem solving.  If you don’t like problems, don’t go cruising! 

The wind continues to pick up and the boat heels further over, as if testing my resolve.  It’s my last 2 to 6 AM watch Saturday morning, and the boat speed is now 10.5 to 11.5 knots, which continued for 5.5 hours straight!  Man!  We are ZOOMING along!!!!  In the dark, I saw a shiny object lying on the mat at the port helm.  I reached down to pick it up and OOOOoooooo, it was cold and slivery!  I snatched up the flashlight and illuminated a deceased flying fish.

    
                                                                         The flying fish

The wind and sea noises became a bit overwhelming as fatigue set in, especially since the mainsail couldn’t be set properly due to the lack of a vang.  Later, I remembered that ear plugs work wonders at minimizing these noises.  By 6AM, I was more than ready for Bill to take over and I was happy to be heading directly north to Beaufort’s MOA buoy/channel and off of this wild ride!  However, I was amazed at how “easy” the passage was for me, overall.  I would certainly choose this route vs. the agony of bumping along the ICW, waiting for bridges and keeping a constant vigil on the depth meter with no time to think.

                                                                        Dawn Day #4

As we approached the MOA buoy, I heard a low moaning sound.  The buoy sucks in air as it rises in the water and “bellows” it out, making the sound, as it sinks back down; the higher the wave, the louder the mournful sound.  Neat!  Who invented THAT?

                                           Beaufort, NC, MOA buoy at outer channel entrance

Race Results:  Loon arrived first at the channel buoy around 7:00 AM.  Rainbow Ride passed by about an hour before us, around 10:30 AM.  We passed the buoy at 11:30 AM, becoming the last boat in.  Bill wasn’t very pleased with our finishing position.  I was elated at having mentally and physically handled the whole passage as well as I had.  I reminded him that we didn’t have a mainsail for the last two days!  But more than the finishing positions, isn’t it amazing that after four days of sailing different paths offshore, we all arrived under 5 hours of each other!  The rhumb line distance was about 550 miles.  The Gulf Stream distance was about 650 miles. All of us had favorable currents most of the time, so our traveling west the first day to get to the center of the current didn’t really pay off.  And as Dave Troyer always said when racing; the shortest distance from Point A to Point B is a straight line...  Yep.  We’re already ready for a counter match and next time, I know we’ll all be racing the rhumb line course!

So now I am sitting in the coffee shop, The Bean,  in Oriental, NC, watching the wind blow, the rain fall, the water rise and surfing the Internet while uploading photos (SLOW going), chatting with Bill and Kenny, and typing this blog entry.  Last evening we (Kenny, Everett, Bill and I) had the BEST meal in months at Douglass and Matt’s house around the corner; baked chicken, fantastic garlicy-orange zest pasta, grean peas with radish and tarragon, friendly conversation and a little wine.  Thank you SO much... AGAIN(!!!),  Douglass and Matt.  You always pick us up when we’re tired and fatigued by “the elements.” 

Look!  No ICE this visit!

We laughed about the celebratory party on Moonlight Serenade the previous night.  “The Loser” had to buy the first round of drinks and I had Goslings and Ginger Beer onboard, so invited everyone over to Moonlight Serenade for Dark and Stormy's. 
   
                        Richard & Kenny                                                                Everett & Bill

Richard, Kenny, Sarah & Everett

Then, we saw Douglass and Matt waving at us from shore, so Bill dinghied over and picked them up.  Somewhere in the middle of bartending for these sailors, I looked at the large, partially used bottle of Goslings Rum, unscrewed the top, held the top up and said, “We won’t be needing THIS anymore,” and tossed it overboard.  I should have had my camera on their faces.  .....PARTY TIME!!!

We sorely missed visiting Ret and Joe in New Smyrna Beach, FL, by taking our long off shore passage north, but again, I don’t miss ONE bridge or ONE bump or ONE questionable channel as the ICW merges with other routes and the red and green markers switch sides in in the WORST locations.  Jeepers!  If I didn’t know better, I’d say I had evolved into an ocean sailor!  When did THAT happen?  

And finally, gone are my flip flops, shorts, tank tops, bathing suits.  I dug out my flannel shirts, long underwear, polarfleece socks and put them all on under my foulies.  You know what?  IT’S COLD UP HERE!

 The last day of the Regatta coincided with my 56th birthday

 

and I planned to enjoy the bash all night long, along with the rest of the Bahamians and many of the cruisers. 

My first purchase was, of course, fresh conch salad; sooooo yummy, sweet and fresh.  Mixed drinks in the Bahamas consist of 3/4 glass booze and 1/4 glass mixer, so I found by purchasing one $4 vodka and water mixed drink and by adding water to it as I drank, it lasted most of the day.  

In the late afternoon, the Exuma Marching Band performed

Exuma Marching Band
 

and after them, the famous Exuma Police Band, complete with their leopard skin outfits, put on a marching band show!
     

The Bahamas Prime Minister was also in attendance and watched near us.  He was initially greeted by the cruising “Fried Flamingoes.”

 
Fried Flamingoes

 We were also entertained by dancing and smiling Bahamians, who could not stand still.



The little girl next to me was fascinated by my digital camera  and took some photos for me, so I took one of her. What a terrific smile!

While the lycra outfits were astounding, the hairdos were REALLY something to behold.

                                              
From colors to braids to beads... the most difficult part is to photograph moving people!

The Exuma Police Band put on quite a show, including the Prime Minister and the band leader “booging down.”  Everyone swarmed in to take photos, so I couldn’t snap one of him, but this is the band leader:

All good things must come to an end, and as the sailboats were loaded back onto the freighters that brought them from all islands in the Bahamas,


the 25 knot winds kept building and we faced a wet and bumpy dinghy ride back across Exuma Sound.  Instead of partying all night, we decided it more prudent to cross the sound in the sunlight, so as the sun set on George Town, we splashed and pounded our way back across to our peaceful anchorage.  Water cascaded up in the air and down upon us, soaking our hair and running down the inside of our foul weather gear.  Usually it just occasionally splashes us.  These were BIG waves!  We arrived with 4 inches of water in the dinghy; very happy with ourselves for making the trip in the daylight!  

While the high winds continued to make leaving George Town a bit too rough, I harvested palm fronds for basket making and ran up and down the beach, racing breaking waves for shells; happy that the majority of the time I grabbed them and got back up the beach before the waves got me.  Good exercise and I found some lovely shells; mostly small, but have you EVER seen an ugly shell?  They are ALL so beautiful!  I see one, pick it up, study its beauty with delight, drop it into my mesh bag and look for another... find one, pick it up, shutter with delight at its beauty, drop it into my bag and look for another.  I decided two things.  First, I will never be able to walk a beach without picking up shells, so I should join “Shells Anonymous.”  Secondly, one gets the same “high” from shell gathering as they do from shopping for girly stuff.  

We are now waiting for a weather window in which to sail toward home.  While waiting, we attended cookouts, played Texas Hold-Um at St. Francis,

         Texas Hold-Um at St. Francis Resort

hiked around Lee Stocking Island and photographed:  
                              
The Butt Tree,                                                            the island termite mounds,



hermit crab tracks, ............................and everything else we wanted to remember.

Finally, the winds were predicted to settle down below 20 knots, so we provisioned to depart George Town, did our laundry, filled up our empty propane tank

and dinghy tank, said goodbye to our friends and put everything safely away for passages through big waves and seas.  I also closed all unnecessary thru-hulls, just to be safe.  

Friday, May 1, we pulled up our anchor at 7:00 AM and headed out of Conch Cut, along with many other boats who had been awaiting a weather window.

                                                                  Mass Exodus!

We also passed the freighter coming in to GeorgeTown.


Before long, we had passed all of the other sailboats and we led the pack (all of that racing experience put to good use, of course).  As most sailors know, anytime two sailboats gather, it is a race... declared or not.  I mean, what else CAN you do, going 4-8 knots (5-10 mph)... just look at each other?  LOL!  

By 8:00 AM, we had cleared the cut and were sailing north along the Exuma Island chain at 8 knots in 18 knots of wind and 4-6 foot rollers in a 5 second period on our starboard side, behind the beam; rolly, but comfortable.  The period is the time it takes from one wave top to the next wave top...the closer the period, the rougher the trip.  There were a lot of flying fish flying today and they ALWAYS amaze me at the distance they fly; 2 to 3 swells away and then, disappear silently into a wave... I always wonder what they are thinking about as they fly through the air; sometimes landing upon boat decks.

By 2:00 PM, we were passing through Dotham Cut.

   
                Heading to Dotham Cut                                         Being tossed around in the mixed currents

The tide was coming out against the wind and waves, creating a small “rage,” which tossed us around a bit, but we safely powered through with our engine and anchored off the settlement of Black Point. 

Black Point, Exumas

This is a lovely Bahamian settlement untouched by tourism.  The water is crystal clear and clean.  We dinghied into town and chatted with just about everyone we met; as everyone was quite friendly.  One Bahamian was polishing his dirt bike; the cleanest dirt bike we have ever seen except in a show room.

 
     Charles!  Check out this shine!

We met Willie Rolles, who invited us to his yard to view The Garden Of Eden, created by him from driftwood and other roots, branches and woods found in the wild. 
    
     Willie Rolles and Sarah                               The Garden of Eden at Black Point Settlement

He said he sees the forms in clouds, then goes into the brush to find wood in the same forms.  The Garden is amazing.  Many animals and even people dancing are portrayed: 

We went into the Scorpion Bar for a Sands (another Bahamian beer), and met two cruisers, Bill and Charlene from Canada sailing on their cat sv-RSVP.  After chatting and enjoying fried conch, they invited us to their boat for a rum drink.  We enjoyed chatting until sunset, when we returned to Moonlight Serenade.  

8:00 AM on Saturday found us anchor up and heading on the “inside” to Warwick Wells to anchor in the marine park.  We arrived there at 12:30 PM.  After lunch, we went swimming.  It was warm and glorious; just like swimming in a HUGE swimming pool.  Afterwards, I finished my first, big basket


and decided to try to weave a square basket for  the center galley island.  At first, it was difficult, but then I figured out how to “square” the corners.  Later, as the sun set, we experienced “the green flash;”  that last hint of light as the sun passes below the cloudless horizon and the prism spectrum, red-orange-yellow-green-blue-indigo-violet, unfolds.  

Sunday, May 3rd, we were up early as the wind direction changed and at 3:00 AM, the boat was rocking hard from side to side.  I got up at 5:30 AM and prepared for the 30 mile Exuma Sound sea crossing from Exuma to Eleuthra.  We had the anchor up by 7:00 AM (had to wait for enough light to see) and headed out the Warwick Wells Cut by 8:00 AM.

We sailed at 7 knots in 13-14 knots of wind on the beam in 2-4 foot seas just in front of the beam, in a 5 second period, which was a smooth, up and over ride. Bill went below to sleep and I found myself pondering my life:  
    
Chartplotter showing us in the middle of Exuma Sound                              Sailing, sailing....

Looking around in the center of this passage there was no one in the world but me.  I felt larger than life, expanding to fill the huge void.  The next second, I felt like a tiny speck in the huge vastness. Funny how we can change our perspectives so easily; about anything...

By noon we were off the Eleuthra Cape and entering around Powell Point.  Since this is a winding route through shifting sand bars,

               Chartplotter of sand bores                                                          Sea and sand bars....  
               

we furled the jibsail and turned on the engine.  We motor sailed northward to Governor’s Harbor settlement, arriving there at 4:00 PM.  This anchorage does not have good holding, as there is a mere layer of sand covering the underlying rock.  We made two attempts to get our anchor to hold; the second one feeling successful.  With sight bucket (bucket with plexaglass bottom doubling as a cockpit trash can)

Looking at the bottom through the site bucket.

in hand, we dinghied over our anchor chain, found the anchor and saw it had dug in about half way.  However, there was also a huge rock within 3 feet of it and if the anchor dragged, it would hang on the rock.  The winds were predicted to be less than 10 knots and after letting out 100 feet of 1/2” chain, we were comfortable with the anchor.  

We dinghied in to walk around town, but most everything is closed on Sunday.  It was interesting to see so many colorful roosters strutting around the town. The Buccaneer Club had just closed when we arrived, but barmaid Natasha said we could purchase a beer. 
    
             Directions on the liquor store                                                    The Buccaneer Club

We inquired about restaurants open for dinner, but none were within walking distance.  Then, she offered dinner there if we would choose one of the night’s specials, which, of course, we did.  The BBQ chicken, peas and rice, and fresh salad were delightfully delicious.  Dinner consumed, we thanked her and departed; returning to Moonlight Serenade still safely anchored where we had left her.

 
Moonlight Serenade in Governor's Harbor, Eleuthra, Bahamas

The anchorage was perfectly still, so we both slept quite soundly, until around 3AM, when the mosquitoes arrived.  Such is the payment of a still, windless night.  I hid under the sheet with only my nose poking out until 6AM, when I got out of bed and closed all of the window screens, dug out the companionway screen and put it in place.  Then, I went on a mosquito hunt and found them hidden on the ceiling of my bedroom.  Two, big fat mosquitoes.  SMASH!  They wouldn’t awaken me tonight!  I learned last year that mosquitos eat and do not depart; as I put in the screens and was bitten again the next night... so I’ve learned to hunt them down.

Monday, May 4th, the weather window continued, so we were able to spend another day exploring Governor’s Harbor.  First, though, since we had been motor sailing yesterday, hot water was available, so I took a nice, “long” shower... which means I wet my hair and self, turned off water, soaped, turned on the water, rinsed my hair and my whole self, and turned off the water.  There are many renditions of how to save water and yet, stay... not-bad smelling.  <grin>  Doing the whole body cleansing is a luxury for most cruisers, due to strict conservation of water.  At least once, if not twice a week, I take my showers, but usually with cold water only... so the hot water was SOOOO nice!

Feeling totally human, we went to town; first to do some grocery shopping (lettuce, potatoes and bread) and then, to purchase some Bahamian music; Best of the Bahamas Volumes 1,2,3 and 6.  It’s HOPPING music!  Next, we walked to Pammy’s for Bahamian lunch. 


                                            Pammy's

I had fried grouper sandwich with plantains and fresh salad.  Bill had... you guessed it... cheeseburger in paradise with fries and salad.... he INSISTS on those darn fries!  Then, of course, I must taste one or two to inspect their quality... Back to the boat with the fresh baked bread and groceries, then back to town.  

On this trip into town, we walked south onto Governor’s Harbor dock and took photos of the 18th C. buildings there.
 

It was late afternoon, so we also had a beer at the local Bahamian bar, Ronnies; after all, the Sands beers were 3 for $5.  You HAD to have one!

Next on the agenda was a walk to the ocean side.  Up, up up the hill,

          Top of hill overlooking the harbor

over, then down, down down the other side. 

"Road" going downhill

No ocean path.  Walked along the dirt road.  

                                                                                     Dirt road
 

No path to the ocean.  Walked along the paved road. 


No path to the ocean.  Came to a cleared lot and walked up over this hill and to the other side.  Saw the ocean, but no path to it. 

So much for walking along the beach... went back to the paved road and hitch hiked back in to town with a wonderful, cute, older-than- me woman, Elizabeth, from New England... with a famous last name... owns her own little island... nice lady; especially since we didn’t have to walk back over the high hill in the hot sun!  

Once back in civilization, we had to have a beer, of course.  However, I went to the local gift shop/straw market first and found a nice woven wall hanging at a very reasonable price in the colors and shape that I most desired, so it now hangs in my stateroom awaiting it’s final resting place at home.  

Once back on Moonlight Serenade, we fixed dinner, watched a movie and I went to bed early.  Bill usually stays up later, but sleeps longer in the mornings.

Tuesday, May 5, at 6:20 AM,  I spoke with “Galena” Bill, who is now in Lake Worth, FL, after sailing from the Ragged Islands (southern Bahamas), between the Bahamas and Cuba, and up, along with the Gulf Stream current to Lake Worth; single handing (by himself).  I don’t know how he stays awake so long, but it was terrific to know he did it, safely made it and I can’t wait to read about it in his terrific blog
(sv-galena.livejournal.com).

At 6:30 AM, I also listened to our weather forecaster/router, Chris Parker, on SSB, and our weather window continues to be favorable, so up with the anchor and we heading north along the western Eleuthra coast toward Current Cut.

             Western coast of Eleuthra

Current Cut.  Even the name sounds ominous.  Last year, several cruisers, including us, fret over passing through this cut for days, while anchored in Rock Sound Harbor.  The cruising books and charts warn boaters to only pass through at slack tide. The current through this cut is quite strong (HOW strong?)  and smaller boats (HOW small?) might not be able to make it through against the current; “ESPECIALLY sailboats.”  So we sat and fret and chatted at happy hours and fret and guessed at the tides and fret until finally, we sailed there.  Initially, it is a very narrow passage around a large sand bore.  The route goes right next to shore,

then parallels along the shore too close for comfort,

then goes past several small rock islands

and past a large rocky shoal before making a 90 degree turn just before you approach the land on the opposite side,

then, quick as a flash(if you’re going WITH the current), you’re through.  

Last year, one boat stayed off of the land and sat on the sand bar for a while.  This year, we were the only boat... Current Cut... At least we knew the tide was going out until around 2:00 - 2:30 PM... going “our way”... so we planned to get there at 1:00 PM.  We arrived at noon, the winds and waves cooperating so well to get us there... Current Cut... the chart memorized... I went up on the bow to take photos and look for the route through, while Bill steered and utilized the chart and the E-80 chartplotter.

Current Cut is just below my finger pointing to our anchorage
 

It was beautiful on deck.  We made it through without a bump, but Bill later confessed his zig-zagging course was looking for deeper water as the depth dropped to 7 feet, 9 inches and it was charted to be 8-10 feet at low tide.  We only experienced 1/2 knot of additional tide, passing through at 8 knots of speed this year.  Last year, we passed through at a speed of 13.5 knots!

On the northern side of Current Cut, the winds were coming from the north, but predicted to come from the east, so we followed the shoreline northward to a protected anchorage off Lobster Cay.  Again, the waters are crystal clear; the bottom totally visible.   I finished my second square basket; starting at 7AM and finishing at 6PM. These two square baskets replace two white bowls we dropped change and other small items into.  I’ve missed the bowls in my galley armamentarium and am happy to have them back.  

Wednesday, May 6th:

Presently, we are sailing across the Northwest Passage,

Crossing from Eleuthra (bottom) to Abacos (top left).  Blue triangles are ships identified via our AIS system.
(AIS=Automatic Identification System, showing Vessel name, heading, home port, type of vessel, speed, etc...)

 

departing from northern Eleuthra (Spanish Town and Harbor Island), and crossing the 60 miles to the Abacos island chain of the Bahamas.  Awakening at 5:30AM, anchor up at 6:00 AM, departing the Eleuthra bank at 7:00AM, it is now 11:00 AM and we have 23 miles left to go; averaging 6.8 knots in 10 knots of wind on a beam reach, in 6-7 foot mixed seas, but with an 8 second interval AND going with the current; comfortable!  We are heading almost due north.  We’re experiencing a smooth, slightly hobby horse motion.  The boat rises up and wiggles a little before sliding down the other side of the swells. 


                Sargossa seaweed at sea

 I like the peaceful, silent sailing with only the sounds of the whistling wind and the gurgling water.  When sailing, one merely locates themselves in a comfortable position for the motion of the boat and keeps a lookout for debris, other boats, land and sail trim.  Otherwise, the day is your own. I’ve been composing this blog entry in hopes of uploading it in Marsh Harbor.  Bill is awake now, so I’ll go below and fix lunch.

Today, lunch consisted of canned turkey, mayo, chopped celery and Bahamian bread.  Often I mix canned beans, mixed vegetables and diced tomatoes, seasoned in a variety of ways to create different tastes, and serve it over rice or pasta.  When cruising, non-perishable foods are important, as the availability of food AND the price of food on the islands is uncertain.  It has been a challenge to invent delicious meals using cans, when I am such a non-canned, fresh fruits and vegetables consumer-type person.

The south-eastern most cut to the Abacos was passable today, so we entered the Abacos there, at the Little Harbor Cut.  If the cut is not passable, as evident when the waves are breaking all of the way across the opening instead of only on the reef on either side, it is necessary to travel 4-5 miles (one hour) further north and enter at the larger cut.  Today, we got lucky.  Without mishap, we passed through the smaller cut, turned north and anchored off Lynyard Cay. The sand at this anchorage was also thin (light layer covering rock), so it took us three tries to find deep enough sand in which to set our anchor.  We have been spoiled by the endlessly deep sand in all of the George Town anchorages.  When you drop your anchor there, BAM!  It digs deeply into the sand and holds extremely well.

The boat next to us is from New Smyrna Beach, so once we loweredf our dinghy into the water, attached the battery, fuel tank, hoses and engine; we motored over to say hello.  

“Do you know Ret and Joe with the sailboat, Together Again?”

”Yes!  They are very good friends of ours!”

“They are some of our closest friends, too!”

“Are you from Solomons Island, MD?”

“Yes!”

What’s the name of your boat?”

“Moonlight Serenade.”

“YES!  They talk about you all of the time.  They even e-mailed us your blog address!”

In this way we met Betsy and Dave on sv-Spindrift.  We all agreed on what wonderful people Ret and Joe are, before Bill and I dinghied the mile and a half to Pete’s Pub, the bar in the Little Harbor anchorage to enjoy one of their specialty rum drinks; The BLASTER.  I think I had two or three last year, but really don’t remember... This year, I had one and a bottle of water while having a delightful conversation with Tom and Loraine from Buck’s County, Pennsylvania, sailing on their older sailboat made in Holland.

Back to Moonlight Serenade before sunset, and leftover beef stew for dinner and another movie, and I was once again asleep by 9PM... Something about the gentle rocking of a boat just lulls me to sleep.  I thought about pets people have onboard, and the same was true with our beagle, Sunny, when he use to cruise with us before my son “snatched” him... boat motion also lulls animals to sleep... rock, pause, rock, pause, ever so gently.....zzzzzzzzz...

Curly Tails bar
Marsh Harbour, Abacos, Bahamas
May 7, 2009

.

DRENCHED!

( For more fun, photos, and info, click here )

Volleyball Beach, George Town, Exumas, Bahamas

At least half of the 165 cruisers have now left the harbor to explore and visit other islands, north and south.  The pace of life is settling down a bit and we are catching up with the day to day chores.  

( Read more and see photos... )</div>

Staniel Cay, Exumas, Bahamas

After leaving New Smyrna Beach (MM 850), we continued south, anchoring off Cocoa Beach, FL (MM 890), the night of March 3rd, and enjoyed dinner in this quaint town. 

 And the ionization cloud... or space aliens.

New Smyrna Beach, FL

We have had the most wonderful visit with Ret and Joe, including a day spent at the Kennedy Space Center... what an interesting area.  

While crewing on Wednesday night "beer can races" and weekend Chesapeake Bay races under Skipper Dave, I helmed during the next two years womens' spring and fall race series. 

For the next two years, I commuted back and forth to Solomons, Maryland, from April to November, racing every Wednesday night and various weekends. 

"Let's buy a boat and sail around the world."  To an adventuresome water-lover, this statement is comparable to, "Once upon a time...,"  as both mark the beginning of a story.

Three years of searching and we found "our" boat...